Pitti Uomo: it’s the modern classic clothing the man of the new millennium
Pitti Uomo 97 has raised the curtain on the marvels of men’s fashion 2020. The numbers spoke clearly at this year’s event, which ran from 7th to 10th January: 1203 brands, of which 540 were foreign (that’s 45%), with new entries and prestigious comebacks numbering 265.
The event, hosted in the splendid setting of the city of Florence and covering an exhibition area of 60,000 square metres, reported a record number of presences, with 36,000 visitors and 23,800 buyers, of which 9,100 were from abroad.
The most represented foreign markets were predominantly from Germany, Japan, the United Kingdom, Holland, Spain, Turkey, France, Switzerland, Belgium, the United States, China, Korea, Russia, Greece, Portugal, Austria, Sweden, Denmark, Canada and Norway.
The common thread that has linked shows, presentations and events this year is diversity: from the minimal street man, in his ample volumes designed by Lucie and Luke Meier for Jil Sander, to the Telfar man who thrives on real eclecticism, next season’s trends are all highly wearable.
The classic look, the intrinsic soul of the show, has been reconsidered and redrawn and the male figure is leaner and more contoured as a result.
Variations on the new elegance for men abound. Among the various proposals for menswear this season there is Carlo Pignatelli. Taking inspiration from a gentleman’s club, he has created a dress code of shiny and matte fabrics, in wool, silk and lurex, playing on the tones of ebony black, tobacco, Venetian red and silver.
Among the classics, Lardini covers the mystery of travel once more, but the highlight of the collection is the outerwear. Avant-garde and experimentation embrace the traditional and give rise to the woven paper coat or heat-sealed trench-coats.
For young classic-dandies, there are trousers by Briglia 1949, where tartan, Forties’-style stripes and wool come blend in an urban-contemporary slim fit.
Innovation and tradition come together and influences becomes the watchword of an event that is increasingly focussed on sustainability and the values of the new millennium.
